I’m a sucker for a good love story. I get all weepy when I’m alone with a novel and love wins out over evil. I watch young couples embrace at the cinema and imagine a lifetime love affair that has only just begun. When I see an elderly man tenderly kissing his wife of 60 years, my faith in humankind is restored. And when I stumble upon a love affair unexpectedly, I can’t help but share my good fortune with the world.
Bryna Gootkind and Lee Farrington are the owners of the recently opened LB Kitchen and the two are married to their restaurant and each other. They met when Bryna was introduced to Lee, the then owner of Figa. And so their love story began.
I recently sat down with the two of them in their intimate and softly lit restaurant dining room. They both have an affinity for Parisian-style bistros and the details of this labor of love, should not and cannot be overlooked. You experience a simple, yet warm and inviting space, the two created with their own hands. The irony is that they almost let it slip away.
Lee purchased the building in 2008 prior to opening Figa, and when the restaurant did not work out, she decided to sell. Complicated factors led to this difficult decision. Bryna was torn about the sale; meeting Lee in the space made it more than just real estate. The building was a part of their beginning and therefore, symbolic of their love for one another. The building sat empty for three years. Potential buyers came and went and deals fell through. The process was exhausting for the two of them. Prior to meeting the last potential buyers, they made a pact: if the deal fell through, for whatever reason, they were going to keep the space and open a restaurant together. Well, you can guess that the promise they made to one another that day has led to LB Kitchen. I only just realized what LB stands for — duh. It didn’t take me long to surmise the stubbornness of these two women. They decided to build a restaurant, build it the way they wanted it, and to build it themselves.
Bryna walked into the old restaurant one day to sounds of demolition. She entered what was once the restroom to find the entire space leveled. Bryna smiled and realized that Lee was not joking when she said that they’d do the buildout with their own hands. It took a little over two years and a few obstacles to open their doors.
Bryna and Lee shared with me what they’re aiming for with LB Kitchen. “Let's be honest, we are not those kind of people who eat to live. We live to eat, all day and every day. We wake up thinking about food we dreamed about. We spend our days and our nights swirling around in our kitchens creating, tasting, laughing, loving, and sharing. To us, food is life, love, medicine and community. Our mission at LB Kitchen is to tell you stories through our food; where it came from, why we love it, why we chose it, why it tastes and makes you feel so good. We believe that food is fun and functional.”
At this point in our conversation I was curious about their customer demographics. Did people ask about specific ingredients? Has anyone complained about the combinations of foods? Are people interested in knowing more about the functionality of their dishes? Bryna told me that most people order the food without questioning the ingredients, but it was clear she’d love for them to ask questions.
I asked about their biggest surprise concerning LB Kitchen since they opened, “90 percent of our customers want to eat in. We thought most would grab and go. We’re rethinking the front of the house; where can we squeeze in more seating?”
They’ll open up their patio at the first sign of warm weather — a wish most of us hope is not too far down the road.
Here’s a sample of some of their creative and delicious menu items.
- Sweet & salty oats with coconut oil, nut butter, honey, cacao nibs, and mulberries
- Breakfast salad with greens, turmeric egg, lacto-fermented beets, avocado, and citrus vinaigrette
- The Figa: wild Boar, rendang, and coconut rice
- The New Yorker: Standard Baking Co. five-grain bread, beet-cured gravlax, and heirloom tomato with a caper schmear (my favorite for so many reasons)
There's also coffee, beer, kombucha, and more. I have not tried everything on the menu, but I’m looking forward to doing the research.
Fate obviously intervened and as a result, this venture has brought Bryna and Lee closer together in every way. Their schoolgirl giggles and obvious profound respect for one another made this customer feel honored to have made their acquaintance.
Latest from Christopher Papagni
- An easy commute does not mean a smooth road — How David Iovino of Blue Spoon makes it work
- The Brains Behind Portland's Soon-To-Be Dizzy Birds Rotisserie
- A Life in the Food Scene — Photojournalist and Food Writer Diane Hudson On Portland Past and Present
- The Green Spot in Oakland is a Camp Favorite
- Albanian Pastries and Smiles: The Coffee ME Up Experience