Liquid Gold — Lemon beers to treasure

I'm still sipping beers that use fruits, berries and other adjuncts to achieve unusual flavors. This week, we'll try a few beers that incorporate the most familiar of the citrus fruits – the lemon! Much of the characteristic flavor of the lemon is due to the citric acid it contains, giving it a sour, biting flavor. Lemons also contain a significant quantity of vitamin C, and the peels are rich in essential oils that carry…

Cooking Channel's 'Late Night Eats' episode features gluttonous trip through Portland — An interview with Jordan Andino

Restaurateur Jordan Andino (of the Filipino taquerias Flip Sigi and 2nd City, both in Manhattan) has landed what many would call a “dream job” in hosting Cooking Channel’s Late Night Eats, a new series chronicling after-hours dining and imbibing throughout North America. Portland joined Montreal, Atlanta, St. Louis and more on Andino’s list of 13 stops for Season 1 — and, as he tells the Phoenix, it was also his favorite of the trip. “It’s somewhat…

Rose Foods brings Old-world elegance and charm to busy Forest Ave.

Six months ago, I had my first experience at NYC’s Russ & Daughters — specifically, their bustling, narrow location at 179 E Houston St. in Manhattan, referred to by regulars and devotees simply as, “The Shop.” I walked in with an old friend from Brooklyn, wide-eyed at the endless array of smoked fish (sable, whitefish, peppered mackerel), housemade spreads and other delights I’d only read about in the New York Times. Seventy dollars later, we left with…

Passionate about Passion Fruit Beers

Passion fruit is the fruit of a flowering vine, whose reportedly comes from the religious, rather than the sexual, meaning of the word passion. Apparently, Missionaries in South America named it in reference to Christ's suffering on the cross. The indigenous meaning of the word is less symbolic "nursery for flies." The flavor of this enigmatic fruit is somewhere between these definitions, both divine and earthy, with a profound flavor that mixes acid and sweetness.…

Sipping On Raspberry Sours

With the first day of fall already behind us but temperatures still in the seventies, I'm craving a return to summer. In acknowledgment of this brief spell of warm weather and the cold that's sure to come, I'm tasting some sour beers that incorporate raspberries. The sweetness of the raspberry heralds the warmest days of summer, and the tart sourness is a reminder of the six months of winter still to come. Hold one of…

Dinner and a Movie: Portland's Tipo and 'A Trip To Spain'

In the new film The Trip to Spain, the British actor/comedian Steve Coogan carries a book as he travels from Cantabria to Andalusia, on assignment reviewing restaurants for the New York Times. The book is Laurie Lee’s chronicle of traveling Spain in the 1930s, just before the fascists overthrew the government and triggered civil war. The film, the third in The Trip franchise, resumes a less consequential contest: between Coogan and Rob Brydon (another British…

Strawberry Beers Forever

In these waning days of summer, I'm tasting beers with added fruits, berries, and other unusual ingredients. Earlier, we tried three beers brewed with added strawberries. Two weeks ago, I reviewed a notice that two breweries I follow were releasing strawberry beers and I took it as a sign. Summer ain't over yet, and there's more strawberry to drink!   Hidden Cove Fragola ABV: 6.0% Format Sampled: 16 oz corked bottle Availability: Purchased at Bow Street…

Too Little, Too Late — First impressions of the Roma Cafe

Nostalgia is one hell of a spicy meatball. Powerful longings for and affection toward the past have been used to boost sales of cameras, movie tickets and everything in between over the course of the last century, with food being no exception to the rule. Whether it be the first drop of Zima in nine years or a dining concept built around a bygone era, the intersection of food and nostalgia is impossible to ignore.…

An easy commute does not mean a smooth road — How David Iovino of Blue Spoon makes it work

There are several kinds of restaurant owners. There are those who thrive on chaos and wouldn’t have it any other way; those who give management over to someone else and detach completely; owners who can turn it off like a switch and back on when they need to; and then there is David. David opened Blue Spoon in January of 2004. He reflects: “If I had known how much work it would be and how…

Keg Count: What's new at Barreled Souls Brewing

I first got to know Chris Schofield and Matt Mills during my time as a driver and guide for the Maine Brew Bus. Back in those days, they had just opened their hole-in-the-wall brewery in a basement on route one in Saco. Their Burton Union system (a process through which all of their beer is fermented in oak barrels) was unique among northeast brewers, and they are quite possibly the only brewery anywhere using such…
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