Kevin Broydrick

Kevin Broydrick

Keg Count: What's new at Barreled Souls Brewing

I first got to know Chris Schofield and Matt Mills during my time as a driver and guide for the Maine Brew Bus. Back in those days, they had just opened their hole-in-the-wall brewery in a basement on route one in Saco. Their Burton Union system (a process through which all of their beer is fermented in oak barrels) was unique among northeast brewers, and they are quite possibly the only brewery anywhere using such a system exclusively. From the start, they cranked out IPAs, higher test stouts and barleywines, and even a signature gose with incredible command. Barrel fermentation separated them from the herd, but barrel aging was always in the cards, and once the guys’ barrel aged offerings started to sneak out into the world, their star truly began to rise.

Now Barreled Souls has expanded, adding a new facility down the road from the original taproom. I sat down with Chris and Matt in the original space to talk about the expansion, and what we can expect in the coming months and years.

Give me the rundown on the new facility. What’s your new capacity look like, and are you still using the Burton Union system?

Chris: Yeah! We’re now on a five barrel brewhouse and we’ll eventually have a hundred barrels of fermentation capacity. Our long term plan, as soon as we can get to it, is 600-litre puncheons, and we have space for twenty of them. We were only able to get 400-litre puncheons to start, 600-litres are tough to find, but we actually got four 600s in a couple days ago. And then right now we have five conditioning tanks, some conicals, some brite tanks. Conicals we’re often using for secondary fermentation with fruit, and dry hopping.

Matt: And dry baconing, and dry marshmallowing.

Chris: Yup, yup. So it’s an 8,000-square foot facility, 20-foot ceilings throughout, so it’s a ton of space.

You’ve always been gun-shy about brewing clean beer in the same facility as wilds and sours because of the risk of microbial cross contamination, will this expansion allow you to experiment with mixed cultures?

Chris: Nah, still not there yet.

Matt: Yeah, we’ve been contemplating whether or not that’ll be a thing. But as of now, our plan is still to do all clean beers. But we will feel comfortable introducing some new barrels [in the original space] that could be questionable; like we’ve never aged anything in wine barrels. Once we’ve moved all of the barrels here over to the new facility this will be where we’ll have some interesting stuff, Madeira barrels, that sort of thing. We’d like to be able to play around with some sour stuff eventually, but with this system, we still don’t think the reward is worth the risk of purposely bringing stuff into our facility where there are barrels and wood everywhere.

With the expansion, can we expect to find more of your beer on draft around the state and beyond? And have you got plans for expanded bottling or (dare I say) canning?

Matt: Yes, yes, and yes. Our focus right now is catching up from the summer. By the time we got up and running at the new spot we were literally on the last keg of every single beer we had. But yeah, our main focus will be to supply more accounts bar and restaurant-wise, that and filling as many barrels as we can go into the winter, for the future. The new facility is designed to hold eight hundred 53-gallon barrels at a time for aging. But obviously, all that beer is nine or ten months minimum before it’s ready to come out. We’ve filled forty-two so far, so there’s a ways to go...

  • Published in Drink

The Clink: Checking in with Hidden Cove

“Before we get started, you wanna have a look at the place?”

Dick Varano didn’t grow up with eyes on opening a brewery. The Braintree native comes from an Italian family, and he’s been a restaurateur for thirty years. Owning a winery in Italy? Sure. Opening a successful brewery in Wells, Maine? Well, OK!

Varano opened Hidden Cove in 2013 out of the old pizza place he owned, just across the street from Varano’s, his Italian restaurant on Mile road near the beach in Wells. Hidden Cove is still currently using the old dining room for barrel storage. But all that will soon change. Varano showed me around their impressive new buildout connected to the back of the current building. They’re set to move production in there soon, along with picking up a new canning line, and a climate controlled attic cellar for those barrels. I sat at the bar with Dick enjoying a Jali, consistently one of my favorite beers in Maine (Herradura barrel aged wheat/pilsner base with charred jalapenos, apricots and agave, left for four months in the barrel with lacto and brett). We talked shop on the expansion, and his values as a brewery owner and chef.

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How's the summer been treating you? You must see a big spike in the taproom thanks to tourists.

We’ve definitely seen an uptick. With the expansion the idea is to have the taproom open a little bit later, so that people that are staying on the beach, you’re in college, you’ve got friends up in town, you have dinner with your parents, and then it’s “alright we’re gonna go hit a brewery, we’ll see you guys later!”

From early on barrel aging and wilds have been a focus for you, tell me about your process.

I have a lot of friends that own wineries in Italy, so they’ve been sending me used wine barrels. The importers bring them over for me because I’m already buying so much Italian wine for my restaurant. I’m not a brewer, but I am a chef and I understand flavors. Kevin Glessing -- our head brewer -- and his team brew all of the beers. But what I do is design some of the barrel aged beers. So Kevin will brew me a base beer and I’ll write a recipe in my mind. That’s how Jali was designed, to be a beer version of a jalapeno margarita. Being a chef I put my own spin on it. When you taste that beer you’re getting the sweet notes from the apricot and the agave, but then you sort of get that twang from the brett and the lacto, then you get that intense green jalapeno fruit flavor. It’s all balanced.

Once this expansion is in place, do you think you’ll be happy with the scale? Or could you see going even bigger eventually?

I always try to think about long term growth. I’m obviously not in production anymore, my job is big picture.  When we sat down and designed this expansion it gave us triple capacity with the ability to go to seven times capacity, all plumbed and ready to go, so it’d be quick to bring a couple more tanks in, couple hours to hook them up, we’re moving. We kept one eye to “what if”, you know? I would be stupid not to at least keep some of that in the back of my mind. That’s why we designed it the way we did, so that if, God willing, the moon and the stars align we have a plan B.

  • Published in Drink

The Clink: Checking in with Bear Bones Beer

I first tasted Eben Dingman’s homebrew about ten years ago, when we were roommates at the University of Maine at Farmington. We were snobs on a budget then. Ron’s market would often bring in distressed cases – beer about to pass or having just passed its shelf life – of Gritty’s, Geary’s and the like, and we could grab a six pack for $4. I don’t think either of us could have predicted the meteoric rise of brewing in Maine, and it’s nice that our paths have wound us both into the industry. Eben opened Bear Bones Beer with his co-brewer/owner Adam Tüüri in February of last year. Since then they’ve been brewing a variety of styles, and some very interesting takes on those styles. The Pink Pils, for example, is a lager brewed with beet juice. The juice imparts a gorgeous pink color, and the earthiness of the beets work in perfect concert with the base pilsner. They also brew a pale ale with smoked malt, and are perhaps best known for their cream ales (the double C.R.E.A.M. and triple C.R.E.A.M., outstanding Wu Tang nods, and both delicious). I sat down with Eben over pints at the Thirsty Pig to chat about his young brewery.


Phoenix: Tell me about how you got started, your background in brewing, and how you settled on Lewiston.


I started brewing when I was living in my family's farmhouse in Turner. One of my good friends had a bunch of equipment from his father's days as a brewer. I brewed mainly lagers and wheat or barley wines initially. As the basement of the farmhouse stayed in the 50's all summer, lagering was the logical choice. When I moved to Farmington for school I was living in an apartment, but space was at a premium and that meant long lagering times were not possible without a basement, so I made the switch to a keg system and attempted some more ambitious recipes.


Adam and I started brewing together in 2013. We started out by building a new 5-gallon home brew kit, combining our keg systems, throwing out all our prior prejudices about brewing, and starting with an empty recipe book. For the next 2 years we alternated as the recipe originator and head brewer, weekly, as we developed and fine-tuned a catalog of recipes.


Lewiston, is the service city for a large area of Maine, including the towns that both Adam and I grew up in. We considered other areas in Maine, but Lewiston was always home, and it represents hope and revitalization. It’s  Maine's 2nd city, and we are its 2nd brewery [alongside Baxter].


Phoenix: You make a variety of styles, but a lot of attention has been paid to your cream ales, what draws you to that style?


The Double C.R.E.A.M. is a beer inspired by a drinking session in Mexico City's La Paloma Azul, a pulqueria. Pulque is a thick beverage fermented from Agave. As i was drinking, I began to think "pulque is to tequila, as beer is whisky, but what is that to bourbon?"I held that thought until I had a chance to create an answer, the Double C.R.E.A.M. While not a typical cream ale, it fit more closely into this style category that any other.


Phoenix: You recently announced an expanded barrel aging project, what can you tell me about that? Will you be aging clean beers, or will there be some wild/sour stuff as well?


We will be focusing on barrel aging, lacto souring and brett. We may bring a koelschip in and do some truly wild ales at some point. but that is not imminent.

Getting to know Battery Steele Brewing Company

“So this is our Flume Double IPA,” Shane Noble begins, “you can take the bigger glass.”

We’re off to a good start at Battery Steele Brewing Company, the newest addition to the One Industrial Way complex, alongside Austin Street and Foundation. The brewery is named for the titular WWII-era gun battery fortification out on Peaks Island. The fort is a spooky, powerful place, you can get lost in the tunnels and find pitch-black darkness at noon.  “It’s a pretty weird spot that I’ve always gone back to,” Noble explains.

Noble started the brewery recently with his friend and business partner Jake Condon. Jake functions as Operations Manager/co-owner, with Shane in place as Head Brewer/co-owner.

Battery Steele has come out swinging with a 10bbl brewhouse system and a couple 20bbl fermentors. They’ve done a wonderful job of integrating a tasting room space into their bay at the Way.  I enjoyed the aforementioned DIPA, Flume, which is hopped with lupulin powder from Citra and Mosaic. The guys also poured me Kineo, their IPA, which is oozing with South Pacific hops (namely a shitload of Vic Secret, Motueka, and Wai-iti). It’s bright, tropical, and pretty gorgeous.

They’ve started selling 4-packs of 16oz cans of each of those two beers, with more on the horizon. They also make a Biere de Garde and a seasonally rotating malt-focused offering (as of this writing it was Telos, a big stout, but that may soon change as we head into Spring).

I sat down with Shane and Jake, to talk about the early days of their new project.

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Before Battery Steele opened their latest tap room, lines would form whenever the "beer window" was opened, offering cans of their brews to go. Photo from Battery Steele Brewing.

Phoenix: So how did you guys come together and decide to start this project?

Shane: I’ve been brewing for ten years commercially, Jake has been running front-of-the-house at a brewery for fifteen years, so it came pretty naturally to us. We lucked out with this awesome spot, and here we are. We started planning this about a year and a half ago so we made a lot of things happen in a short amount of time.

Jake: I started at Gritty’s in ‘01, and was there until last October. Started out in the brewery, waited tables, sat on the Door, barback, bartender, manager, and then eventually up to GM.

Phoenix: Does Battery Steele have plans for distribution of kegs or cans any time soon? Or will you just be selling out of the brewery for the time being?

Jake: It’s one of the unknowns we have now. We need to first lock down a proper amount that we can sell out of here that can service the people that come to the Park. But yes, eventually we do want to have logs out to the public, and have cans at select spots around town.

Phoenix: Any plans for anything funky or sour, any wild beers coming eventually?

Shane: Yeah, we’re gonna start putting stuff in barrels, but you won’t see that for a very long time.

Phoenix: As it should be.

Shane: But yes, we have every intention on cranking out some funky beers.

Phoenix: As you were looking for a location, did you have your eye on a spot here at One Industrial, or were you just interested in whatever was available and a good fit?

Shane: We wanted to be here, for sure. We looked a couple other places but then, you know you come out here on a Saturday and for a new guy there’s no better place to be. The exposure you’re going to get here, you’re not going to get that anywhere else. We lucked out that one unit was opening up.

Phoenix: As a young brewery, where do you guys find your inspiration? Any Maine beers that are particularly influential?

Shane: We have such an amazing cross section of beers here in Maine, the whole scene is an inspiration, really. There are so many good IPAs, from Bissell, from Foundation, from Austin Street. And then the other side, funky and sour beers, Oxbow, Allagash. Everybody has been doing such good stuff that every place is an inspiration for me. There’s just so much good beer around.

Battery Steele is located right next to Austin Street on the back side of One Industrial Way. They’re on Wednesday-Saturday 12-7, and Sundays 12-5.


Mami Restaurant Opens, Offering Quick, Affordable and Delicious Japanese Street Food

Austin Miller always loved to cook, but it wasn’t until he met his partner Hana that he found a cuisine he wanted to stick with. Hana’s family is Japanese, and she schooled Austin early on to some staples of that country’s diverse street food. “She was the catalyst. We were both working restaurants. We were at the Eastender, and when that sold we were both in a weird ‘what do we do now’ phase?”

Hana had been cooking the food she grew up on, at home, throughout their relationship. They decided on starting a food truck because there wasn’t anybody else doing Japanese street cuisine in Portland. “Most of these dishes are something you can find on the street in Japan,” Miller said. The food pulls from various strains of Japanese quick eats, but is most deeply indebted to the Osaka style, where dishes like Takoyaki were born (grilled balls of batter, filled with diced octopus, scallions, pickled ginger, and katsuobushi). Takoyaki ($7), along with many other staples of the truck can be found on the menu at the new restaurant located on Fore Street, next to Vena’s Fizz house and across the street from Rosie’s.

food mami

I recently attended Mami’s soft opening. They had a full menu available and it was a good introduction to how the restaurant will operate. Mami will not have table service. There is a counter for ordering food, along with three rotating draft beer options or one of the many cans in the cooler (there are also 40oz of malt liquor, because one should be prepared for anything). There are tables in the upper part of the split level front-of-house space, along with a lounge area near the entrance.

Many menu items will be familiar to regulars of the truck, and everything is reasonably priced. Yakisoba ($10), thin soba noodles with seasonal vegetables in a nuanced, umami sauce, has long been one of the most satisfying dishes Portland’s food trucks have had on offer, and it’s nice to see it on the restaurant’s menu as well.

Yaki Onigiri ($4) is a traditional grilled rice ball with a soy miso glaze (umami city), scallions, and furikake (a fascinating granulated seasoning made from extracts of seaweed, sesame seeds, and dried roe). The menu version at the moment is filled with braised eggplant, but Miller said that filling will often rotate, along with the seasonal veggies in the Yakisoba.

The Big Mami Burger ($10) is something to behold, and is another item that was initially a special on the truck. “It was indicative because it sold out in like twenty minutes,” Miller said, “but it was kind of hard to do that in the space we had. So as soon as we were opening a restaurant it was an obvious choice for the menu.” The patty itself is blended with curry powder and dried nori, along with togarashi, a red chili flake. The brioche bun is made in-house with squid ink, which turns it black, and let me tell you, it is a sexy burger. Topped with a rich American cheese, lettuce, tomato, and kewpie, it perfectly encapsulates the simultaneously nuanced and satisfying nature of the entire Mami menu.

food mami front

Food trucks have become a staple of the Portland food scene, but not having to search has its perks. Baharat, a brick and mortar evolution of the CN Shawarma truck, recently opened along with Mami. Both serve food that is simultaneously elegant and comforting, no small thing to pull off. Mami’s permanent location is a worthy addition to an already sprawling food scene in the Old Port. The counter service and short-order nature of Mami make for a quick stop for lunch, but the inviting beer selection and limited seating make it a good spot for a cheap and filling dinner as well. I’ll be back soon.

  • Published in Food

Please, Pour Some Head Into Your Beer

I’ve just seen yet another Instagram post I “may like” from a guy who scored some great beer. In this case, it’s Elaborate Metaphor, a delicious American Pale Ale from Burlington Beer Company. This guy has poured his beer into a 16 oz glass, but rather than leaving a bit of space at the top, and pouring vigorously, he has painstakingly set about having the liquid beer itself fill 100% of the vessel, eclipsing the glass with hazy, hop juiciness.

It’s a sexy picture. The problem is, he’s screwing himself out of the full experience.

Since June, I’ve been working in the tasting room at Bissell Brothers. We serve 5 and 10 oz pours of beer, and those beers are served in glasses 2 oz bigger than their filling to make room for a head. Since we’re serving primarily hop-forward beers, that head is integral to the experience of the beverage; aromatics play a huge role.

Jake Austin of Austin Street in Portland echoed the sentiment. “Brewers put a lot of time and effort into making sure their beer has a pleasant aroma, so pouring a beer without head is doing a disservice to the brewery and their work.”

The best beers offer a distinction between the “nose” and the “flavor”. That distinction lends a complexity to the drinking experience. It makes for a more fulfilling and interesting beer. For example, you might get a ton of apricot aroma in the nose of an IPA, but when you taste it those apricot notes are still there but are complemented by a strong push of grass and melon. Brewers are pulling a greater variety of flavors out of hops than ever before, so getting the full picture is important. As Jake put it, “IPAs rely heavily on hop aromatics, so when a beer is poured to the very top of the glass not only is there no foam pushing aromatics out, there is also no space in the glass for the beer to open up.”

But it’s not just hoppy beers that benefit from a little breathing room, German wheat beers are traditionally served with at least two fingers of head, and stouts should give one a mustache for a reason; you’re smelling it and tasting it all the way down.

Even with wild beers and sours, it’s important to pour with purpose and let the beer swirl a bit. Lambics and Belgian witbiers are often so lively that a narrow stream from height is all that’s required to open up a head, but many wild ales (and particularly kettle-soured beers) have a quickly-disappearing head, so it’s best to pour steadily down the side of one’s glass and let it all swirl. The more hydrophobic the chemical composition of the head, the longer the foam will stick around before dissolving into the beer.

This is all to say, please pour some head into your beer. But for his part, Jake Austin isn’t worried about this whole top-of-the-glass thing being more than a trend. “For every ignorant pour I see on Instagram there is at least one person calling them out on it.”

I’ve written in the past about the burgeoning beer culture of collector-versus-drinker, but this particular development really riles me. It amounts to making an aesthetic choice based on the look of the beer, rather than having any focus on aroma and flavor. I like observing the visual characteristics of a beer as much as the next person, but I prefer drinking it, and getting the most I can out of the experience.

Talking Barrel Aging with Barreled Souls

When Chris Schofield and Matt Mills started Barreled Souls and poured their first beers in 2014, they were still a full year out from serving a barrel aged beer. The brewery and taproom in Saco are distinct in that it ferments all of its beer in oak barrels, a technique first pioneered in Burton-on-Trent England in the 1800s, but fermentation and aging are two different things. It wasn’t until the one-year anniversary party that they were able to unveil their first three barrel aged beers. Now the taproom regularly features two or more barrel aged offerings on draft alongside a variety of other styles, all of which are being executed admirably.


From the start, Schofield and Mills have been passionate about centering the project on barrel aged offerings, and now with a few years under their belts, we’re regularly savoring the fruits. When I stopped in last week they served me two different barrel aged versions of Deep Space, an Imperial Stout, one aged in Hillrock Farms' bourbon barrels, the other in tequila barrels. In many ways, the experience — having two versions of the same beer aged in different barrels — encapsulated what the entire Barreled Souls project has been about from the beginning. The differences in the beers were immediately striking and fascinating. The bourbon aged stout carried figgy, raisiny notes alongside the characteristic charred vanilla. The tequila barrel version threw vegetal agave and a remarkable associative salinity that cut the sweetness of the stout. Between sips, we talked clean barrel aging.


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Gene Beck from Nocturnem Draft Haus at the Barreled Souls Brewery concocting a Rocky Road White Stout with cocoa nibs, amaretto, and marshmallow fluff. 

What different types of barrels are you using for aging?


Chris: This most recent release, Deep Space, we had three different types of bourbon barrels, and then a tequila version and a rum barrel version.


What types of beers are best suited to oak aging, and do you find certain styles of beer do better in certain types of barrels?


Matt: One thing we’ve definitely noticed is that the freshness of the barrel matters. Now we get almost all our stuff from Hillrock [Farms, a small, family-owned distillery in Poughkeepsie New York] because we literally get the barrel the same week that it’s been emptied. We’ve also discovered that some of our barleywines and wheat wines taste really good in rum barrels, but that seems to be everyone’s least favorite barrel when it comes to the stouts. So we try to do side-by-side comparisons because we like to see what difference the barrel displays in the beer directly.


Chris: It’s like pairing food and wine or anything, some things work better together than others. Bourbon and dark beers, and then the lighter beers -- we have a blonde barleywine coming out, and honeypot that we make with honey -- those seem to do better in a variety of barrels.


You mentioned you’re sourcing a lot from Hillrock, how do those relationships happen? Where did you first start looking around for a stock of barrels you could use?


Chris: In the beginning, it was a lot of Matt just calling around to everybody he liked and seeing who responded!


Matt: Yeah it’s changed pretty dramatically, six years ago when we first wrote our business plan, we contacted Buffalo Trace and they were like “yep, you can get whatever you want, just let us know, barrels are $62”. And then two years down the line when we opened, all those big distillers now won’t even deal with a brewery directly, it’s all done through a broker. So Hillrock was just a great bourbon I’d had. They’ve been easy to work with to get stuff when we want it. They’re really small, been around for about 5 years now. They grow all their own grain and all their own corn, and they malt it all. It’s nice to know exactly what we’re getting, and when we’re getting it.

The Clink: Checking in with Mast Landing Brewing Company

We’re now up to 89 breweries and counting in the state. While the concerns about an eventual craft brewery “bubble” make for interesting dinner conversation, the industry in Maine has shown admirably few growing pains. It would be one thing if the recent spate of brewery openings was watering down the standard of quality in the state, but what has happened is close to the opposite. The Maine beer industry is now a thoroughly collegial place, where competition is about who can make the best beer, not the most money.


Mast Landing Brewing Company, based 15 minutes from downtown Portland in Westbrook, has a familiar origin story. The classic homebrewer makes good. But what sets Mast Landing apart is their commitment to their community and an already sterling reputation for quality across a variety of styles. President and co-founder Ian Dorsey was good enough to answer some questions about his young brewery.


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Ian Dorsey.

The Phoenix: At what point did you make the decision to turn a homebrewing hobby into a full blown brewery, and what factors went into that decision?


Ian: It was early Spring of 2015 and I was a Financial Advisor at the time. My wife, Kelly and I had just had our first child. Tommy's birth provided a whole new perspective on life. Up until that point, I had spent most of my time focusing on my clients and whether or not they were fulfilled and happy with the direction their lives were going. I never had the opportunity to completely examine whether I was happy with my career or not. It wasn't long after his birth that I figured out that I was not happy with my career and that I needed to make a change. After some lengthy conversations with Kelly, I was finally able to convince her that this could work. Once I convinced her, I quit my job and approached my partners with the idea. They signed on immediately and the rest is history.  


What made you settle on Westbrook as a location, and how has the town been to work with?


By the time we were ready to find a location for the brewery, there were already 65 breweries operating in the State. Because of this, the inventory of properties that were even remotely adapted to brewing was very thin. When we found the space in westbrook and realized that it had high ceilings, concrete floors, and floor drains, we jumped on it. From day one, the City has been phenomenal to work with. Everyone at City Hall has bent over backwards to help us navigate the hurdles of local government and permitting. The Westbrook residents have also been extremely welcoming and supportive.    


Tell me a little more about your brewing system and fermentation capacity.


Currently we have a 2 BBL brewhouse with 4 BBL fermenters. We are in the middle of an upgrade to a 7 BBL brewhouse and 30 BBL fermenters.


Any plans for barrel aging and/or wild and sour beers in your future?


At this stage we are looking at adding a sour program to our lineup. We have started to talk about barrel aging, but don't have any firm plans. We want to focus on this upgrade and stabilizing our production before we shift our focus to other processes.  


Will we see cans or bottles of Mast Landing in stores at some point?


We will be introducing 16 oz., 4-pack cans to our tasting room and distribution network in early spring.  

The Clink: Checking in with Gneiss Brewing Company

Of all the considerations that go into starting a new brewery, location is one of the most central. Most brewers opt for a spot near the heart of a populous area and do so for two obvious reasons: increased foot traffic and proximity to more draft accounts.


But when Dustin Johnson and Tim Bissell, founders of Gneiss Brewing, started brainstorming locations in 2012, they decided to go in a more pastoral direction. The brewery is situated on Dustin’s family’s land amongst rolling farms and forests in Limerick. They started brewing in early 2013.

 The Clink: Checking in with Gneiss Brewing Company

Photo courtesy of the Gneiss Brewing Company.

Gneiss is committed to a concept, the self-coined “agrogeobrewery”. They feed their spent grain to the small farm’s pigs, who in turn help till and fertilize the area where they’re growing hops and malt. Now they’re set for an expansion. I sat down for a Tweiss — Gneiss’s weizenbock, a toasty lager amber in color at 7 percent ABV — with Tim Bissell to discuss the foundations and future of Gneiss.

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Photos courtesy of the Gneiss Brewing Company.

Phoenix: Tell me more about the “agrogeobrewery” concept.


Tim Bissell: Dustin’s always been into homesteading and doing as much in-house as possible. We’re on eight and a half acres and we had it logged four years ago. We’ve been getting pigs every year, they turn the land over for us. It’s a beneficial closed-circle thing, and it creates a little more work, but if you’re gonna build a brewery in the middle of nowhere, you might as well do something with all that land. There’s always going to be a consideration to what we can grow on-site and what we can get locally, and how we can tie it into the beer.


You’re a few years in and you’ve done beer in a range of styles. Are you more interested in experimentation or refinement at this point?


With our size, that’s a tough balance. We always want to be experimenting, but as you create accounts, you have to make sure you have beer available when people want it. As we look at expansion, we’ll be taking our core brands and keeping them going as much as we can, and then filling in the schedule with barrel-aged beers, some one-offs ... keeping it fresh. We want to get more beers in rotation, we just need more tanks.


What are some trends that you’re liking in the Maine beer industry?


I love the fact that Maine has become known for IPAs, and I like that a lot of those same breweries are starting to branch out and make other styles of beer. The beauty of beer is variety, there’s a beer out there for everybody. If you don’t like hops, there’s a stout for you. If you don’t like dark beers, there’s a pilsner for you. It’s not good enough now to just be a local brewery, you’ve got to be a good local brewery, and I think to prove how good you are you should make a good variety of beer. I’d like to see that trend continue.


What more can you tell me about your expansion and the next steps?


The back side of our building is now a full-on tasting room. We’ve got 10 taps. It’s nice to have a tasting room where we can host people now, a place where we can enjoy our beer in a little more of a relaxed setting. And we’re closer to the wood stove, which is way nicer. Beyond that, for expansion, we are planning to add on to our production space. Those plans haven’t completely been fleshed out so I don’t want to say too much, but it’s in the future.  

The Clink: Getting to Know Dirigo Brewing Company

If I told you twenty years ago that Biddeford was on its way to becoming a culinary and cultural destination, you probably would have laughed me out of the room. But here we are in 2017 and the “Biddosance," as I like to call it, is in full swing. With outstanding food spots like Palace Diner and Custom Deluxe, galleries and boutiques moving into once-shuttered storefronts on Main Street, and, most importantly, the revitalization of derelict mill complexes, Biddeford has quickly become a hip place to visit.

Add to that list of attractions Dirigo Brewing Company, founded by owner and head brewer Tom Bull, his wife Molly, and business partners Mark and Meesha Paulin. Tom has taken a winding road through the beer world and worked just about every job related to the industry imaginable. Mark and Meesha were all too thrilled to be a part of his return to brewing. Now he’s in a refurbished Mill Space in downtown Biddeford, directly adjacent to the rumbling Saco River falls. Since opening Dirigo in August, he’s brewing European-inspired beer styles with an impressive command. I chatted with Molly, Mark, Meesha and Tom about their new space, ghosts, and the future of the young company.

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Phoenix: What made you settle on downtown Biddeford as a location for the new brewery, and how has the town been to work with?

Mark: We had looked at a bunch of different locations; Freeport, Portland, Biddeford. We had actually found a spot in Biddeford we were going to go with. But then we came down here to the mills, and it was a lot to take in because it was such a project. It almost seemed overwhelming. But we ended up going with this place because of the views [of the river] and the growth that we were seeing in the downtown area.

Molly: In terms of working with the city of Biddeford, the red tape was virtually nonexistent. They’ve eliminated the red tape, I guess would be the best way to put it. They told us what we needed to get all the green lights. The mayor has been a huge fan and supporter and often comes in.

Meesha: The Chamber of Commerce and Heart of Biddeford [a local organization devoted to encouraging economic growth in the downtown area] have also been huge supporters. They’ve had functions here and they’re very interested in helping to support us.

Phoenix: Have you interacted with any ghosts? I hear a lot of stories about these mills being haunted….

Meesha: YES. Bob.

Phoenix: Bob?

Meesha: I dreamt about him, he came to me in my dream, legit! But yeah we’ve heard stories of music going on in the brewery when nobody’s here and it’s all dark. And I have random things that show up fixed, and nobody knows who did it!

Molly: There may be some spirits living in the waterfall behind us. People will learn more about that in the future, I’m sure….

Phoenix: You seem devoted to brewing European-inspired styles historically neglected here in the US. What drives you toward traditional styles, and lagers specifically?

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Tom: I think a big part of it is the fact that they’re neglected, and that they’ve gone by the wayside, and why? They’re phenomenal beers. They harken to those old days, those old brews. Specifically lagers, I’ve always kind of inquired “how come nobody’s doing it?”, especially on the craft scale. I think it’s an important segment of craft that’s been neglected for a long, long time. I like to say that ale is like lager’s rough-and-tumble cousin. That historical element of it, bringing back these styles that haven’t been done in hundreds and hundreds of years, figuring out why they were lost. And also there’s a challenge behind it, to try and recreate those styles and see if we can do something true to what the brewer was intending back then. It’s part of the challenge and part of the fun.

Phoenix: Where can folks find your beer on draft outside of the tasting room, and will we start to see bottles or cans in stores anytime soon?

Mark: We have a few places that are keeping us on tap all the time. I’d say around a hundred places have had us on tap at one time or another. Based on production and sales we should hopefully have packaged beer out in cans by Summertime.

Molly: We’re almost always on at Bull Feeney’s and Brian Boru, and often The Great Lost Bear.

Meesha: Elements [a coffee, beer, and book store] here in Biddeford has also been very good to us.

Mark: We’re looking to streamline, now that we’ve had five or six months under our belts -- different flavors, different designs. We’re trying to figure out what works best and open up to a broader market.

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