Erik Neilson

Erik Neilson

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Cooking Channel's 'Late Night Eats' episode features gluttonous trip through Portland — An interview with Jordan Andino

Restaurateur Jordan Andino (of the Filipino taquerias Flip Sigi and 2nd City, both in Manhattan) has landed what many would call a “dream job” in hosting Cooking Channel’s Late Night Eats, a new series chronicling after-hours dining and imbibing throughout North America. Portland joined Montreal, Atlanta, St. Louis and more on Andino’s list of 13 stops for Season 1 — and, as he tells the Phoenix, it was also his favorite of the trip.

“It’s somewhat of a tie between Portland and Nashville — both were just more than I could’ve ever imagined — but I’ve gotta give it to Portland,” says Andino. “Portland has this small-town feel, but with just so much character. Typically when you go to one of these smaller cities, you’re done in a couple of hours. Portland is so concentrated with great shops, restaurants and bars; it’s literally unforgettable. I’m coming back within the next couple of months just to hang out!”

Andino made the most of his short amount of time in Portland, with stops at Eventide, Bylth & Burrows, Lincolns, Rhum, Liquid Riot and Nosh — the latter three of which made it into the Portland episode of Late Night Eats.

“The way we usually do this is the networks for recommendations from myself and any friends or acquaintances I might have that know the area,” says Andino. “I have a couple of friends who make it up to Portland all the time, so we were in good shape coming in. The sandwiches at Nosh were so out there and ostentatious — I love it! I’ve gained 17 pounds doing this show, and I’m pretty sure places like that are to blame. The food at Rhum was super classic and simple. As a Pacific Islander, it’s been fun to watch the Tiki trend grow and spread across the country. Honestly, it reminded me of home. Oh, and the drinks at Liquid Riot; just unreal stuff.”

As someone who has experienced last call in many cities throughout the continent, Andino has little negative to say about Portland’s 1 a.m. shuffle.

“What I like about it is that it puts you in somewhat of a heightened state, because you’re like, ‘Okay, everything closes at 1 — how can I do it all?” says Andino. “I saw 14 cops outside at like 12:45 a.m., though. You can clearly see there’s such a big late night culture in Portland, but you can also tell that if it went on any longer, there’d probably be nothing but trouble. Plus, the later and later the night goes, the less I can probably tell you how ‘good’ it is. I can say that I’ve never had the food I eat at 3:45 in the morning sober during the afternoon!”

So, how do our late night eats stack up against the rest of his stops?

“I look for value, carbs and all that grease, and Portland had it all,” says Andino. “Late night food? I don’t care where I am — I want that Nosh burger.”

The thirteen-episode season of Late Night Eats premiered on Cooking Channel September 28. The Portland episode airs on Thursday, October 12, at 10pm ET.

Jordan Andino's Portland food crawl menu


Nosh Mac 'n Stack burger (fried mac ’n cheese patties as the buns / American cheese / smoked BBQ sauce / smoked bacon)

Polenta cheese fries


Gourmet lobster roll

House-made ice cream sandwich with Fernet Michaud


Polynesian skewers

Spicy tiki wings  

  • Published in Food

A Gross Way to End Your Night Coming to Portland — Pastry chef Brant Dadaleares to whip up a Confection Bar

Dessert in Portland is about to get gross, and you’re not going to want to miss it.

DSC 5924Pastry chef Brant Dadaleares is currently working on developing Gross Confection Bar, a dessert-focused restaurant destined to create a niche of its very own. The 40-seat establishment — location still to be determined — is expected to provide a unique atmosphere with a focus on artfully plated desserts, as well as “enrobed ganaches, fruit pâtés, bon-bon, entremets, late night savory snacks and desserts to go,” according to the project’s Kickstarter page.

Dadaleares has built a reputation for himself over the span of his career thanks in large part to the balance of creativity and classic technique he brings to all of his desserts. A former pastry chef of eight years at Fore Street, he also spent time at Arrows in Ogunquit before landing his current position in the pastry department at Hugo’s, Eventide Oyster Company and The Honey Paw.

Those who have been lucky enough to snag a seat at one of the “Gross Confection Bar Pop-Up” events already know how layered and intricate Dadaleares’s creations are, and the promise of a full-time location to cap-off dinner in the near future is drool-inducing to say the least. The project’s Kickstarter campaign ends Tuesday, October 17, at 12:01 a.m., coinciding with two Pop-Up celebrations on Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16.

IMG 9818

Portrait by Zack Bowen; Food photos by Jason Legacy

For tickets and to contribute, visit

  • Published in News

Rose Foods brings Old-world elegance and charm to busy Forest Ave.

Six months ago, I had my first experience at NYC’s Russ & Daughters — specifically, their bustling, narrow location at 179 E Houston St. in Manhattan, referred to by regulars and devotees simply as, “The Shop.” I walked in with an old friend from Brooklyn, wide-eyed at the endless array of smoked fish (sable, whitefish, peppered mackerel), housemade spreads and other delights I’d only read about in the New York Times.

Seventy dollars later, we left with ear-to-ear grins and the provisions for a feast I won’t soon forget. It was so good, in fact, that I remember commenting on how much I wish we had an analog of some sort in Portland.

Enter Rose Foods, a new addition to Forest Ave. that fills an otherwise untouched niche in Portland’s dining community.

Rose Foods is modeled in large part after the “appetizing store” first brought to NYC by Joel Russ in 1914. From the menu design and look/feel of the space (a comforting reimagination of what formerly housed the Brea Lu Cafe, now in Westbrook) right down to the language central to the restaurant’s branding — ”Quality, Vitality, Cleanliness” emanate from the front window in gold lettering — Rose Foods is a concept restaurant by its very nature.


The interior of Rose Foods. Photo by: Erik Neilson

This could easily spell disaster in the wrong hands. It just so happens, though, that owner Chad Conley seems to have a knack for this type of thing.

Conley is responsible for reviving Biddeford’s Palace Diner in 2014 alongside business partner Greg Mitchell, which has garnered praise from national publications and a cult following that continues to fill seats for bites of the state’s best burger and tuna melt. The Palace successfully takes the age-old concept of the roadside diner and updates it for modern tastes, without straying from the heart of what makes us crave regional American food to begin with. It is, in my opinion, one of the most unique restaurants in Maine.

Rose Foods finds Conley playing with yet two more timeless concepts, bridging the gap between the Old-world “appetizing store” and the modern Jewish deli — and it’s brilliant timing. If attempted in a place like New York City where it would sit alongside R&D, Katz’s, Barney Greengrass and 2nd Ave. Deli, Rose Foods might easily go overlooked. In a city like Portland, fully devoid of establishments operating in the same space, it has rightfully become the center of attention.

And it would all be nothing more than smart marketing if the food wasn’t so incredibly on point.

The menu at Rose Foods revolves largely around the shop’s “famous golden bagels,” which — despite having been in production for only two months — have already earned their foreshadowed reputation around town. With a crisp shell and chewy interior, they tick the boxes on what should constitute a “New York bagel” far better than any other examples found throughout Southern Maine. Flavors remain consistent week-to-week, with “special” bagels like celery, fennel and dill rotating in and out.

Classic Nova Open Faced

The classic nova lox open faced bagel sandwich. Photo by: Erik Neilson

Bagels can be schmeared with a spread of choice (butter, house-mixed cream cheese spreads, chopped liver) and topped with whitefish salad, sable or a variety of different lox options. Add on capers and perhaps some dill, and you’re out the door happy. For a more curated approach, the “Appetizing Platter for 2” consists of bagels, cream cheese, smoked fish, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, dill and capers — a great introduction to the core of what Rose Foods does so well.

Those famous bagels really shine in sandwich form, offered either open-faced or closed in ten different varieties. The “Classic Nova” is a solo diner’s answer to the Appetizing Platter, stacked with nova lox, cucumber, onion and capers over a base of plain cream cheese. The “Luxe Lox” — salmon cream cheese, nova lox and salmon caviar — is nothing short of self-love in sandwich form. Even the egg sandwiches won’t be found elsewhere in town, like the unapologetically old-school “Monday Morning,” layered with chopped liver, egg, pickles and gribenes (read: crispy chicken skin).

Classic Jewish deli fare is not to be missed at Rose Foods, with the pastrami on rye taking center-stage — a mountain of warm, tender smoked corn beef I’ve seen light up the eyes of unassuming patrons upon first bite on numerous visits (add sauerkraut and make it a fresser!). Matzo ball soup is authentic and steaming hot, like a warm blanket that puts off the day’s responsibilities for just 15 more minutes. On weekends, golden-fried latkes are served with sour cream, applesauce and optional caviar for celebrating a job well done.

Salads, pickles, spreads and a variety of smoked fish are available for takeaway, as well as a well-curated selection of sundries unlikely to be found at any nearby grocery store.

The one complaint I’ve heard echo across social media and elsewhere about Rose Foods has been in regard to price point. Yes, a meal at Rose Foods can add up — the Fresser Pastrami with sauerkraut comes to $24 on its own; an open-faced “Orchard Street” (sable, capers and herbed cream cheese) will set you back $18. Adding a few sides, a cup of Parlor coffee or a can of Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda means footing the bill for a pricey breakfast or lunch.

I’m going to play devil’s advocate here and say that the price point at Rose Foods is validated entirely by the fact that it operates without competition and at an extremely high level. Conley and his crew are sourcing the best ingredients available and have put a great deal of thought (and obvious elbow-grease) into creating something that, up until today, has not existed in the Portland area. I, for one, am more than happy to pay a premium to support such an establishment — it sure beats hopping a bus to NYC.

Each time I’ve been into Rose Foods since they’ve opened, I’ve overheard more or less the same phrase uttered by clientele both young and old — ”I’m really glad this is here.”

Me too.

Rose Foods | 428 Forest Ave., Portland | Wed-Sun 7 am-2 pm | 207-835-0991 | 

Erik Neilson can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 

Too Little, Too Late — First impressions of the Roma Cafe

Nostalgia is one hell of a spicy meatball. Powerful longings for and affection toward the past have been used to boost sales of cameras, movie tickets and everything in between over the course of the last century, with food being no exception to the rule. Whether it be the first drop of Zima in nine years or a dining concept built around a bygone era, the intersection of food and nostalgia is impossible to ignore.

The Roma Cafe operates under the latter principle. First opened in 1924 by Italian immigrant Dominic Marino (who would later pass the business along to his two sons), The Roma would eventually be billed as Portland's “most romantic restaurant” before closing its doors under a second ownership in 2008. The Bramhall Pub, downstairs, suffered a similar fate until reopened in 2014 by Mike Fraser, who is also responsible for resuming dinner service at the Roma for the first time in nine years.

Classic Italian fare of strong quality is not exactly available in droves throughout southern Maine, positioning the Roma’s new incarnation for success right from day one. And the interest is there — an hour wait on a Wednesday evening for a two-top, a dining room bubbling with baby boomers eager to cut into their first bite of Veal Milanese in nearly a decade.

During a recent visit, however, execution proved to be lacking across the board.



Roma Cafe's Chicken Marsala with a sauté of summer squash and side of pasta.

Things started strong when a well-made, spongy focaccia showed up to the table alongside a plate of pickled vegetables, fruity olive oil and nutty Grana Padano cheese — generously on the house. Chicken liver Toscano arrived next, showcasing a mousse smooth in texture, yet unapologetically iron-forward in taste and garnished with flat-leaf parsley and rough-chopped tomatoes. Calamari Fritti — otherwise breaded and fried to perfection — was rendered difficult to eat by an egregious presence of salt.

Unfortunately, entrées of Bucatini Amatriciana and Chicken Marsala also failed to impress, the former characterized by a thin, watery sauce and saved only by the inclusion of smoky guanciale. While unoffensive enough, the Marsala — flanked by a sauté of summer squash and side of pasta that felt like afterthoughts — somehow lacked flavor despite also being seasoned with a heavy hand. Though a saving grace could be found in a side of meatballs (plump, yielding and unctuous), my dining partner and I both agreed it was too little, too late.

Fold-in exceedingly long wait times between dishes (especially for a Wednesday night), as well as a potentially gorgeous dining room tarnished by wall-to-wall fake candles, and it’s clear that the new incarnation of the Roma Cafe has some work to do. After all, nostalgia can only get you so far in a dining town with such a strong focus on execution.

The Roma | 767 Congress St., Portland | Sun-Thu 5-9:30 pm; Fri-Sat 5-10 pm | 207.761.1611


First Bites: Little Giant

Open since last winter, Hunt and Alpine owners Briana and Andrew Volk’s specialty foods shop — aptly named “Little Giant” — has become one of the best places in the city to take home a special treat in celebration of a job well done (or just getting through the day in 2017). What first comes off as a modest selection of food staples and other sundries turns out to be a highly curated assortment of some of the world’s finest culinary offerings upon further inspection — think hard-to-find canned fish, artisanal salumi and a small but serious wine section.

Now, the Volks can count a third Portland venture as part of their portfolio with the opening of Little Giant’s full-service restaurant, connected to the shop (though walled-off) at 211 Danforth St. Helmed by Chef Rian Wyllie and Bar Manager Max Overstrom-Coleman, the restaurant claims to focus on “Continental European cuisine with an eye to New England ingredients and traditions” and serves a full menu from 3 to 11 pm every day. It’s a natural extension of Little Giant the shop, offering an ingredient-centric dining experience and a visual attention to detail evident in both plating and the design of the space itself.

I recently stopped in for an early evening weeknight solo dinner, which proved to be an excellent introduction to what the kitchen at Little Giant has been up to since opening in July. A fried calamari taco with cherry pepper relish, lemon aioli and house-made squid ink tortilla was at once playful and familiar, bursting with salinity and finishing clean — the kind of thing I never knew absolutely needed to exist until it was put in front of me.

Creative in its own simplicity was a dish of grilled asparagus, served with spring onions, fresno chile, chimichurri and “chorizo breadcrumbs,” the latter of which should be packaged and sold as a pantry item. Balance abound, this was a harmonious display of salt, acid and vegetable char if I’ve ever seen one.

The LG Burger & Jojos (read: burly, delicious steak fries) served as the evening’s entrée, a no-frills take on the diner staple topped with American cheese, pickled grilled red onion, iceberg lettuce and BBQ mayo. Though a bit on the small side, the burger’s sheer and undulating juiciness made up for any perceived size discrepancies demanding bite after blissful bite. I left full and happy.

Little Giant is shaping up to be one of the West End’s premier dining destinations, and I wholeheartedly look forward to eating my way through the rest of the menu.


Little Giant | 211 Danforth St., Portland | 3-11 pm | 

Chaval Redefines Neighborhood Dining in the West End

Anyone who has lived in Portland since the turn of the century knows that the restaurant community has seen an immense amount of growth over the course of the past 17 years. Look around, and the signposts are everywhere. Some will quickly identify the closing of the Village Cafe in 2007 as the proverbial tidal shift between two Portlands (“old” and “new”), while others stretch back to Fore Street’s emergence as a dining destination in 1996 — perhaps the first inkling that a golden age would soon come down the pike.

Personally, I trace the city’s current explosion of new ventures and glossy-cover national coverage back to the mid-2000s, when well-executed cuisine finally integrated itself into the peninsula’s two bookend neighborhoods. East Enders were treated to bold new flavors via Bar Lola and the Blue Spoon (just steps away from one another), the latter of which has stood the test of time, the former growing into an even more mature and calculated version of itself in the form of Lolita. Caiola’s opened in the West End to great fanfare around the same time in 2005, bringing modern takes on Italian classics to a neighborhood sorely in need of a date-night hideout.


 Chaval's smoky house burger

It had a good run — 12 years, in fact — before co-owners Lisa Vaccaro and chef Abby Harmon eventually sold the restaurant to Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez, two established and successful chefs who came to Portland via New York five years ago and have operated the southern Italian-focused Piccolo at 111 Middle St. since 2013. Business as usual continued at Caiola’s until earlier this year, when doors were shuttered to make room for what today exists as the French and Spanish-inspired Chaval.

58 Pine St. has undergone a complete physical transformation. Gone are the walls that once separated the kitchen from the main dining area, which itself is now adorned with exposed wood beams, artfully placed mirrors and sexy accent lighting. A gorgeous bar (much larger than before) serves as the focal point, offering a close-up glimpse of the bustling, completely redone kitchen; Chaval is arguably the most beautiful dining space the West End has ever seen.

Cocktails kick things off. I order the “Spanish G&T,” an astoundingly satisfying take on the classic drink garnished with whole juniper berries and served in a goblet with a bottle of Fever Tree tonic on the side to adjust for strength. For my dining partner, a specials board infusion of Mezcal and local strawberries, eliciting visions of a summer solstice campfire. Later, the “Nogal” combines rye, Italian vermouth, Campari and walnut liqueur to great effect, keeping the palate on its toes without forgoing the comforts and familiarities of a well-made old fashioned.

Chaval’s menu is not small, consisting of 40+ small, medium and large plates at any given time, including desserts and daily specials. It can be approached not unlike that of Central Provisions, a “choose your own adventure” through the annals of French and Spanish cuisine. Extravagance is certainly an option, as is bellying up to the bar solo for a plate or two of food and a beer — the experience is very much dictated by diner preference and appetite.

In a recent conversation, Sansonetti mentioned that he’s able to experiment with new ideas and cook the things he wants to at Chaval, which is precisely where the kitchen seems to excel. Braised dandelion greens with bacon, gold potatoes and vinaigrette liven-up the taste buds with a pleasant acidity and subtle smokiness, while a plate of North Spore mushrooms with duck egg, chorizo and sherry vinegar shatters all expectations of how just four elements can play off of one another. The Empanada Galicia is a creative highlight, an alchemic melding-together of swordfish belly, peppers and potatoes sandwiched between two impossibly flaky sheets of pastry.


Sardines with house-pickled vegetables and mustard 

Panko-breaded Quail "Cordon Bleu" is as mouthwatering as it is playful, showcasing strong technique while paying homage to nearby Barber Foods' top-selling frozen food product. A special of exquisitely tender Sardines a la Plancha—framed by chopped fave beans, house pickles and whole-grain mustard—fell cleanly off their delicate skeletal systems and finished with a long, briny minerality.

Classics — though perhaps less awe-inspiring than the menu’s more whimsical dishes — are solidly executed and serve as perfect entry points for the uninitiated. Beef tartare melts on the tongue, mingling with bright pickled onion and an unctuous sunnyside quail egg. Steak Frites consists of a perfectly grilled flat iron paired with an authentic, addictive bearnaise and some of the better handmade fries the city has to offer. “The Burger” is not to be missed — double stacked, sinfully delicious and perched upon a smoky, beef-fat-laden brioche bun made in-house every day. Jamon Iberico de Bellota, considered by many to be the finest ham in the world, is prepped to order behind the bar on a bright-yellow vintage meat slicer. 

A pastry chef with a resume practically dipped in gold, Lopez’s desserts are just as outstanding at Chaval as at Piccolo. A chocolate marquesa topped with whipped fresh cream yields beautifully to a spoon and coats the tongue like satin sheets; Ile Flotante places a delicate boat of meringue atop a calm sea of crème anglaise, flanked with berries and pistachios that bob above and below the surface like buoys. Churros (served with a side of molten chocolate sauce) are spot-on, showcasing a crisp, salted sugar-dusted shell that gives way to a cloud-like interior.

Caiola’s may have brought elevated dining to the West End 12 years ago, but Chaval has redefined the concept of what a neighborhood restaurant in Portland is capable of being today. If month one is an indication of things to come, Sansonetti, Lopez and team are here to stay.

Chaval | 58 Pine St. Portland | Wed-Sun 5-10 pm | 207-772-1110 | 

Erik Neilson can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 


  • Published in Food

Công Tử Bột Elevates Without Sacrificing Authenticity

For better or worse, inner Washington Ave. and the neighborhoods it connects have experienced a great deal of change in recent years. While rising rents and the inevitable displacement of lower-income families represent the darker side of change, a shining light can be seen in the drive and passion shared by those who are actively working to revitalize the Nissen building and its neighboring storefronts. In just a few short years, the landscape has morphed from a strip of vacancies into a thriving community of food and drink establishments that includes Oxbow Blending & Bottling, Drifters Wife, Terlingua and the excellent Izakaya Minato.

The latest to join the list is Công Tử Bột, which — even with its limited opening night menu — proved to offer an entirely unique dining experience not found elsewhere in the city.

It should be noted that opening night is rarely an indication of a restaurant’s true prowess — a scathing review highlighting missteps and a laundry list of perceived problems would be irresponsible to publish. Kinks take time to unravel and should be expected up-front to an extent. When a restaurant and its staff are able to fire on all cylinders from day one like Công Tử Bột did last Thursday, however, opening night can be an excellent indication and intriguing tease of things to come.


PHO WALK WITH ME Công Tử Bột's vaguely Lynchian signage

Owned and operated by Tandem Coffee Roasters co-founders Jessica Sheahan and Vien Dobui, it’s no surprise the space that houses Công Tử Bột is well-designed. Warm neon lighting bounces off of a beautiful matte wood bar that snakes around the open kitchen, calling to mind a Nintendo-era realization of Hopper’s “Nighthawks.” R&B and lively conversation fill the room — Usher’s “Nice and Slow” comes on, the lights dim. A lowered garage door wall randomly filters in shadows and street noise. The vibe is decidedly youthful.

Though a 30 to 45-minute wait remains a constant throughout the evening, service never flounders. Jessica runs front-of-house operations, Vien manages a kitchen of three. Three or four servers float effortlessly around the room, replacing water and removing spent dishes without a break in the action.

The meal begins with Cà Phê Sữa Dá; Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk. Though the drink is a favorite of mine, it’s often imbalanced and sickeningly sweet — not so at Công Tử Bột. Once mixed via spoon and poured over ice, the coffee is just sweet enough without showing any bitterness, with mocha notes present throughout. Even if you don’t have time to sit down, it’s worth stopping in for a cup to go when the sun is blaring down.

Công Tử Bột bills itself as a “phở cafe,” and the Phở Gà (house-style chicken phở) is a prerequisite to experiencing the rest of the menu. A heady, extremely light broth bubbles away and is perfectly seasoned for balance, avoiding the temptation of becoming a clove or anise bomb. Crispy shallots meld perfectly with mild, impossibly tender poached chicken. Garnished with the typical amalgamation of sprouts, greens and fiery sliced chilies, the soup is carried by a heaping portion of thick, hearty noodles, making it the ultimate comfort food and a must-order during the winter season.

Hủ Tiếu Xào was especially impressive, a dish of stir-fried rice noodles with scallions, “many chilis,” peanuts, daily vegetable and brown sauce. The dish is numbingly hot up-front, while sparing the back of the tongue to some extent and calling to mind the “Ma La” dichotomy characteristic of Sichuan cuisine. The caramelized noodles are unlike any I’ve had in Portland, with a depth of flavor highlighted by the aggressive usage of spicy chilis. Fresh raw cucumbers and cilantro add a cooling foil to the heat, which is tamed only by taking generous swigs of Tiger lager.

Gỏi Cải Bắp — a salad of cabbage, ginger, chilies, fish sauce and herbs — also helps to cleanse the palate between dishes. Extremely refreshing, the textural crunch of the cabbage plays nicely off of a sweet and salty dressing of fish sauce and lime, augmented by a strong mint presence. Cơm Chiên (fried rice with egg, XO and herbs), though a bit dry, helped bridge the gap between the healing phở and incendiary Hủ Tiếu Xào.

Dessert was Kem Flan, listed on the menu as “Saigon-style Flan w/ Coffee Ice,” and an excellent end to the meal. The silky, satin-like vanilla flan was beautifully formed and topped with a crumble of coffee ice that added a pleasantly bitter contrast to the sweet custard. Even more interesting was the temperature contrast between the flan and the ice, which reminded me of a sweet application of the same concept as the mustard greens with ice served at Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok restaurants.

Though Huong’s, Thanh Thanh 2 and Saigon all offer up great food and a pleasant dining experience, Công Tử Bột is in a category all its own. The space is lively, the menu is playfully self-aware — Chè Khúc Bạch is described as “sweet soup w/ rambutan, ice, and various jellies. Very trendy in 2013.” Gratuity is included in what are already lower-than-expected price points, too, which should serve as an interesting experiment and benchmark for other restaurants looking to follow suit.

Công Tử Bột got it right on opening night and is a welcomed addition to the neighborhood. If the Lynchian-blue “Phở” sign in the window is lit, you know what to do.


Công Tử Bột | 61 Washington Ave., Portland | Thurs-Mon 5–10 pm |

Erik Neilson can be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

  • Published in Food
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